The Alhambra in Granada is Europe’s most stunning monument to Moorish culture. It is also swarmed with tourists. A private visit with Art Tours starts in the evening after the crowds have left and includes an overnight stay in the grounds. Originally a walled fortress – hence its name ‘the red castle’ – it became a lavish and ornate palace for Granada’s Nasrid emirs in the 13th and 14th century. Light, water and space characterise the Moorish geometry of its palaces, courtyards, pools and gardens. Highlights include the Alcazaba – the original fortress citadel with its commanding views, the gardens of the Generalife summer palace and the Palacio de los Nazarines royal palace.